Thursday, 24 September 2015

How to Grow Papaya


   
Papaya is a perennial plant that grows in tropical and subtropical climates that allow for no chance of frost or freezing temperatures. Some species can grow as tall as 30 feet (9.14 m), and most have attractive yellow-, orange- or cream-colored flowers. The plant's fruits may take on a variety of shapes, including pear-like or round, and are known for their sweet, yellow or orange flesh. Learn how to grow papaya for the best chance at healthy plants and a high quality fruit crop.

Growing Papaya from Seeds


Check whether papayas will thrive in your climate. 
Papayas thrive in USDA hardiness zones 9-11, which corresponds to minimum winter temperatures of 19 to 40ºF (-7º to 4ºC).  They may be damaged or die if exposed to prolonged frost, and prefer climates that are warm throughout most of the year.
  • Papaya trees do poorly in wet soil. If your climate is rainy, you may plant them on a mound of well draining soil as described further on.
Prepare your soil. Choose a nutrient-rich potting mix for tropical plants, or make your own mix out of garden soil and 25–50% compost. As long as the soil drains well, the exact soil texture doesn't matter. Papaya will grow in sandy, loamy, or rocky soils.[3]
  • If you are able to test soil pH or you are choosing between commercial potting mixes, select a soil with a pH between 4.5 and 8. This is a broad range, so it is likely that any soil that successfully grows other plants in your garden has the correct pH for papaya.
  • If you want more of your seeds to germinate, use sterile potting mix or sterilize your own mix by mixing 50-50 with vermiculite and baking in the over at 200ºF (93ºC) for one hour.


  • Prepare the seeds. You can use seeds scraped out of the center of a papaya fruit, or seeds purchased from a gardening store. Press seeds against the side of a colander to break the sac surrounding the seeds, without breaking the seeds themselves.[5]Rinse thoroughly, then dry in a dark location on a paper towel.


Plant seeds. You may plant seeds directly in your garden to avoid the risks of transplanting them later, or you may plant them in pots to have greater control of plant arrangement once you see which ones are sprouting. Poke the seeds into the soil about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) under the surface and about 2 inches (5 cm) apart from each other.
  • Plant as many seeds as you have room for to increase the odds of both male and female plants sprouting; you can remove the weaker plants later on. There is no feasible way to tell whether a plant is male, female, or hermaphroditic before planting.

Water the soil moderately well. Water thoroughly after planting, but do not soak to the point that standing water forms on the soil. Monitor the moisture over the next few weeks and water as necessary, keeping the soil slightly damp, but not soggy.

Determine which seedlings to keep. Approximately two to five weeks after planting, some of the seeds will germinate, and emerge through the soil surface as seedlings. After giving them a week or two to grow, pull out or cut the smallest seedlings, along with any seedlings that appear withered, spotted, or otherwise unhealthy. Cull plants until you have only one plant per pot, or the seedlings are at least three feet (0.9m) apart. Keep at least five plants for now for a 96% chance or higher to produce both male and female trees.[8]
  • Once you've chosen your most successful plants, move on to the section on planting, if transplanting to your garden, or the section on general care otherwise.
Once plants are flowering, remove excess male plants. If you still have more plants than you want to end up with, wait until the plants are about 3 feet (0.9 m) tall to see what sex each plant is. The male plants should flower first, producing long, thin stalks with several flowers. Female flowers are larger and near the trunk. In order to produce fruit, you only need one male plant for every ten to fifteen females; the rest can be removed.
  • Some papaya plants are hermaphroditic, meaning they produce both male and female flowers. These plants can pollinate themselves.
Planting a Growing or Mature Papaya Plant


Build a dirt mound if necessary to avoid water. If there are heavy rains or floods in your area, build a mound of soil 2–3 feet (0.9 m). (0.6–0.9 m) high and 4–10 feet (1.2–3.0 m). (1.2–3 m) in diameter.[10] This will help keep water from pooling around the papaya's roots, reducing the chance of injury or death.
  • Read the instructions below before you build you mound to learn about soil preparation.

Dig a hole otherwise. Make the hole three times as deep and wide as the planting pot or root ball, in the plant's intended permanent location. Choose a sunny, well-drained location, about 10 feet (3.1 m) from buildings or other plants. Make a separate hole for each papaya plant.

Mix an equal amount of compost into the displaced soil. Unless your garden soil is already rich in nutrients, replace some of the soil in the hole or mound with compost and mix thoroughly.
  • Do not mix with manure, as this can burn roots.

Drench soil with fungicide (optional). Papaya trees can die from disease after transplantation. Follow the instructions on a gardening fungicide and apply it to the soil to reduce this risk.


Add the plant carefully. Add the altered soil back into the hole or pile it in a mound, until the remaining depth is roughly equal to the depth of the potting soil or root ball of the plant being transplanted. Remove the papaya plants from their containers, one at a time, and plant each in its own hole at the same depth as it sat in the container. Handle them carefully to avoid breaking or scraping the roots.

Backfill the soil and water it. Fill the remaining space in the hole with the same soil. Pack gently to remove air pockets if the soil isn't filling the spaces between the roots. Water the newly planted papaya seedlings until the soil surrounding the root ball is thoroughly moistened.



Apply fertilizer once every two weeks. Apply fertilizer to growing plants every 10–14 days, diluting it according to the fertilizer's instructions. Use a "complete" fertilizer, not a specialized one.Continue to apply at least until the plants are about 12 inches (30 cm) tall.
  • After the plant reaches this size, commercial growers continue to fertilize papaya every two weeks with 1/4 lb. (0.1 kg) complete fertilizer near but not touching the base of the plant. Follow this practice if you would like to hasten the plant's growth, gradually increasing the amount of fertilizer and length of time between applications until the papayas receive no more than 2 lb. (0.9 kg) every two months starting at seven months old.

Water papaya seedlings and established plants regularly. Papayas can be easily damaged by standing pools of water, but may not produce sizable fruit without regular water access. If planted in loam that holds water well, water no more than once every three or four days. In sandy or rocky soils, increase this to once every one to two days during hot weather. Allow a few more days between waterings during cooler seasons.


Apply bark mulch if necessary. Apply pine bark or another bark mulch around the base of the plant if you need to reduce weeds or if the plant looks withered from failure to retain water. Layer 2 inches (5 cm) of mulch around the papaya, no closer than 8 inches (20 cm) to the trunk.


Inspect the papaya's leaves and bark regularly for signs of disease or insects.Spots or yellowing on leaves or bark indicate possible disease. Black spots on the leaf won't typically affect the fruit, but may be treated with fungicide if the infection is severe. Curling leaves may be a sign of picking up herbicide from a nearby lawn. Other problems, including insects or full plant collapse, may require consulting an expert gardener or local agricultural department.




Harvest papaya fruits when they reach the level of ripeness you desire. Tart, green fruits may be eaten as a vegetable, but many people prefer fully ripe, yellow or orange fruits for their sweet taste. You may harvest anytime after the fruit is mostly yellow-green, if you would like them to finish ripening indoors, away from pests.

Wednesday, 23 September 2015

Paddy Straw Mushroom Cultivation

          Paddy Straw Mushroom Cultivation

Paddy Straw Mushroom
Required Ingredients : 
1) Paddy Straw : Straw of local paddy is usually good for paddy straw mushroom cultivation.  Specially straw from paddy variety with white primodia, narrow, stiff and un-threshed(by bullock or tractor) is required. Paddy straw when trodden by bullocks or tractor, loose stiffness and easily rots when it comes in contact with water, gets compressed which is not good for mushroom mycelia growth. As such straw obtained through harvesting by beating the straw bundles with hand are always good for mushroom cultivation. Only the top and panicle portion is removed. Paddy straw should be harvested leaving only 4” to 6” from the ground level. This is because on fungal species is found at the base portion which caused rotting and contamination of the straw subsequently. Paddy straw from variety C.R.1014, 1242, 141, T90, is good for preparing mushroom beds.A mushroom bed of 2 feet length, 2 ft wide and 2 ft height is prepared from 10 to 20 bundles of straw as per the thickness of the straw bundles. First hold on the top of straw bundle and loosen the binding of the straw bundle by doing so the leaves come out. If leaves will remain, it will hold more water for long time and cause rotting of the straw soon. 
2) Mushroom Spawn: For one bed of mushroom 350 to 400 gm of mushroom spawn (seed) required. The culture should be free from infection. 
3) Nutrition : For cultivation of paddy straw  mushroom, powder of bengalgram, lentil, horsegram, red gram, blackgram or green gram and wheat bran and paddy husk is used. Powder obtained from bengalgram with its seed coat gives more yield form powder of bengalgram with seed coat.  

Material required to prepare one bed of Mushroom :
Straw bundle :-  15-20 bundles of straw OR 15 kg (as per thickness of bundle)
Mushroom Spawn(Seed) :-  One bottle Or 350 gm
Nutrition :-  250 gm of Bengal gram or red gram
Bed Size :-  2 ft x 2 ft  OR 2.5 ft x 2.5 ft
Space  :-  3ft x 3ft OR 4ft x 4ft ( 10 sq ft to 16 sq. ft) 
Cultivation Method : 
1) Remove leaves of the straw bundle and cut to 2ft size with a straw cutter.  The required number of straw bundles are soaked in a tank of clean water for 12 to 16 hours. Water from ditches, ponds etc which are dirty  should not be used. At the time of soaking use 100 ml of formalin and 8 grams of bavistin per 100 liters of water. Where electric heaters are available hot water should be used for treating the straw bundles.
2) Remove the straw bundles from water and keep in standing positions for 5 to 6 hours so as to drain out the excess water from the outside and inside the straw bundles  and only 75 % moisture will remain in the straw bundles. 
3) Spawn of 3 to 4 weeks should be used. Break the bottle and remove the glasses. Use cotton to remove small glass piece if stick to the spawn. Divide the spawn to 4 equal parts and make small pieces of spawn having size of thumb finger.  
4) Use 250 gms of Dal powder grinded from whole grain of bengalgram. Else use paddy husk or rice bran to reduce the cost of cultivation. It should also be divided to 4 equal parts.  
5) After arranging straw, spawn and nutrition, prepare the beds. First put a layer of straw of 6-9 inches height. See that the bases of straw are towards outer side and top portion are inside. Let the direction of the first layer be east-west or north-south. Take one part of the spawn out of the 4 parts and put the spawn pieces on the bed leaving 3 inches from outer side and at 3-4 inches distance. Sprinkle the dal powder of Bengalgram or redgram over the spawn  blocks and nearby area.  
6) Over the first layer, put again 6 to 9 inches height of straw. Arrange the straw on the opposite direction of the first layer (East-west of North-south).  Take of another part of spawn and put the spawn piece at a distance of 3 to 4 inches as in the first layer. Also sprinkle the dal powder over it as done previously.   
7) Put the third layer of 6- 9 inches of straw in parallel direction to the 1st layer and put rest 2 parts of spawn all over the third layer and sprinkle 2 parts of Dal powder too.  
8) Cover the third layer with the final 4th layer of straw of 2 inches width, parallel to the 2nd layer. Now press the layer at the top so that the mycelium can grow well. Cut the spilled straw all around the bed with the help of a seizure.  
9) After the bed is ready, cover it with  white polythene or stitched sheet of cement/fertilizer bags. Remove the polythene sheet each day and spray water on portion of bed where straw is dried.   
10) After 9 to 10 days when mycelium growth is observed, the polythene cover is removed exposing the bed to open air. After one day of removal of sheet, water is sprayed over the bed 2-3 times a day to maintain the moisture level of the bed.   
11) Harvesting : First flush of mushroom comes out after 15 days of sowing. The mushroom should be harvested at bud stage whose demand is more in the market and also tasty on cooking.  

After 14-15 days first phase of harvesting is done giving 90 % of the yield. Then after 9-10 days in the second phase of harvest rest 10 % yield is obtained.